La Alquimista de los Sabores: Patrimonio gastronómico, género e imaginario turístico en México
Palabras clave:
patrimonio gastronómico, género, turismo culinario, Oaxaca, MéxicoResumen
A través de un trabajo de campo multi-situado realizado en 2011 y 2014-17 en la región central de Oaxaca y del análisis de fuentes secundarios, este texto analiza el surgimiento de una celebridad culinaria, la cocinera zapoteca Abigail Mendoza Ruíz de Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca, en el contexto más amplio de la política cultural mexicana de la comida como patrimonio. Centrarme en la biografía relacionada con la alimentación me permite revelar las dinámicas vernáculas de la patrimonialización de las prácticas alimentarias-culinarias nativas y el papel que han desempeñado en este proceso las cocineras de renombre. Escudriño las negociaciones y las disputas, así como los conflictos abiertos sobre las representaciones del patrimonio, la política y los derechos entre los diferentes actores que han participado a lo largo de los años en la (re)construcción de imágenes sociales de la cocina étnica femenina en beneficio de la industria del turismo y, en términos más generales, los intentos estatales de rebautizar a México como un destino gastronómico seguro.
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